Information

Hi Guys,
Checking in on my old favorite rug site, it's changed and they don't have the selection of rugs they used to have, but I did find some useful information.  www.woodworkersauction.com/architecturalstyle.htm  This defines styles in a short, but definitive way, useful I thought.

Are you snowed in?  We received about a half inch of ice and maybe a couple of inches of snow on top.  The weather people were predicting over a foot of snow, a few days later they said a couple of more inches and just to the south of us they received 8 inches.  I had gone grocery shopping on the weekend so we were good for food and we had drawn water into everything that could hold water.  We have a well and electricity pumps the water.  My  husband wanted to be sure we had enough feed for the donkeys so I had to go out to get feed for the donkeys on the day of the ice, I bought some Diet Pepsi and a big bag of Peanut M&M's for me so I could last through the storm.  My son took me out and he drives an old 1990 Ford pickup, that sounds funny saying 1990 is old, he doesn't have heat so the defrost wasn't working and his wiper blades were awful.  We took a little longer than expected and the ice started coming down and freezing to the windows.  We live about 20 miles out of the city.  He stopped along the way to scrape the windshield. We came to the little town 6 miles from where we live and stopped for gas and checked a car repair garage.  They were open and had some wipers, they even put them on for us.  HooRay!!  We got home, that deserves a Pepsi!
I hope you all are safe and warm, I'm stocking the furnace with plenty of locust logs, it burns the hottest.  Thinking of a wine rack with a marble top for this months tutorial.  I saw it in an old Williams-Sonoma catalog.  Figuring out the ways and hows.

Talk to you all later,  Kris

How to Make a Miniature Vintage Sink, Centimeters

My little lady is canning beans for the state fair.  She is hoping for a Blue Ribbon this year.  That Gladys McGillicutty always takes the Blue Ribbon!

I have had a request for centimeters for my sink in the vintage kitchen
I am just going to go through it again adding the centimeters to the instructions.  I am going to get as close as I can just by using my ruler to convert.  In miniatures your"eye", what looks "right" to you can go along way.
Here goes . . . . .
This is how I made the kitchen sink for the kitchen room box.  I made the sink from wood, gesso and a jelly container, the small single serve kind from restaurants.  If that's not available I've used any "bubble" packaging that is the size of the sink I want, this one is 39 mm x 45 mm, (1 1/2" x 1 3/4").  I have frustrated many a sales person looking around for the "right size" package, not the a particular product, but what the product is packaged in!
Start out with a piece of 3mm (1/16") thick basswood, 48 mm x 109 mm (1 7/8" x 4 1/2").  Cut a hole in the center for your sink.  I am now going to refer to this piece as the sink top.  The plastic bubble should have a flange that you can use to glue the "sink" onto the basswood.  I glue the "sink" under the top.  Don't glue now, just don't trim this flange off.  Measure the sink and cut the opening, 11 mm (3/8") from the back and 4 mm (1/8").  You can use an exacto knife, cutting a little bit at a time, sand smooth.

We are going to add on to the sink top by gluing more wood to the top of it for a thicker edge, for a back of top and for drain board ridges.

From almost 4 mm (3/32") basswood cut a strip 11 mm (3/8") wide and 109 mm (4 1/2") long.  Soften one edge of this piece with sandpaper, it should not be square, diagram A.

This piece is glued toward the back of the sink top, on top of the of the sink top.  This piece is where the faucet will be glued on.  Glue the strip on using wood glue, that's a yellow color.  If you haven't got that Elmer's white glue will do, it will just take a little longer to set up.  If you can clamp this piece together, do it.  Spring type clothes pins make pretty good clamps.

From almost 4 mm (3 3/32") basswood cut a strip 4 mm (1/8") wide and 109 mm (4 1/2") long, also cut 2 strips 4 mm (1/8") wide and 45 mm ( 1 3/4") long.  Soften the top 2 edges of these 3 pieces, diagram B.

Glue these pieces onto the sink top according to diagram C.  Clamp and let dry.  When dry slightly round off the front 2 corners of the sink top.

Round off the front corners of the sink top after you remove the clamps.  Just take the sharpness off.





When everything is dry I sanded a slight slope to the drain boards going toward the sink opening.

Cut from almost 4mm (3/32") basswood 3 mm (1/16") wide strips.  If you have access to 3 mm (1/16") wide half round use that.  If you don't have access to half round, round off the top 2 edges of the almost 4 mm (3/32") x 3 mm (1/16") strips according to diagram B.  These are the drain board ridges.  I glued 6 of these onto each side of the sink opening.  You'll need to clamp these down if you sanded the slope in the sink top.

Before you glue the sink to the underneath side of the sink top, cut a hole in the center of the plastic container for your drain.  I found a plastic cap about 6 mm (1/4") and stuck a straight pin in the center, painted it silver and dotted it with black on the inside of the cap to simulate the drain holes.  This became my sink strainer/basket.

Another option for the sink drain opening is to use a gripper snap for the rim and leave out the strainer/basket.  Gripper snaps are found in the notions department of a fabric store.  They are the kind that are fastened to the fabric with points that are pushed through the fabric and then the points are bent over.  These are not the sew on kind of snaps.

When you are satisfied with all of your sanding, glue the sink to the underneath of the sink top and set this assembly aside.


Sink Cabinet

Follow the sizes in the diagrams for cutting out the sink sides, back and front.  Round off the top 2 corners of the back.  Glue the sides onto the back, bottoms even, the back will be 11 mm (3/8") taller, that's the back splash.

Follow this drawing to glue the front and back to the sides.














Cut from 3 mm (1/16") basswood a strip 11 mm x 112 mm (3/8" x 4 3/8"), this is to be painted black and will be glued onto the bottom front of the cabinet, it's the back of the toe kick.

The doors, drawers and center vent are made from 3 mm basswood, (1/16").  Cut 25mm x 45 mm ( 1" x 1 3/4"), cut 4 for doors.

The drawers are 25mm x 12 mm ( 1" x 1/2"), cut 2.

The center vent is 27 mm x 12 mm ( 1 1/16" x 1/2"), cut 1.

With sand paper, soften all four edges of the doors, drawers and vent.

I cut vent slots with an Exacto knife,  I've also seen a shape cut out and filled with decorative screen.  Cross stitcher's perforated paper would work for this.

Glue the sink top onto the cabinet.  The sink top will be longer and wider than the cabinet by just a bit, center the cabinet under the sink top from side to side and it should have all the extra towards the front.

I use gesso to smooth everything in. all the seams need to be filled.  I paint gesso over the whole sink top and let it dry.  The gesso will sink into the seams, so you will have to paint the gesso on a few times.  After you've got everything filled you can sand it all smooth.  Remember, you want this sink to look like a piece of cast iron with the smooth finish of porcelain.

When that's done paint the sink top and cabinet.  Paint the doors, drawers and vent separately.  I used Rustoleum white, it's an oil base enamel and gives a good appliance finish.  Paint and sand between coats with fine sandpaper, I will use up to 400 grit to get a good smooth finish.  When you are satisfied with the surface, do not sand the last coat of paint.  Glue on the doors, drawers and vent.  Paint the toe kick black and glue it to the front bottom of the sink cabinet.

Go to the kitchen roombox stove for a little more explaination of the painting.

I don't make my kitchen cabinets or appliances open.  I am not going to open them and I don't leave them hanging open.  They aren't hanging open in my full size kitchen.  I think leaving them open in a miniature scene emphasizes that it is a miniature.  I am going for as much realism as I can achieve.

For the handles I painted a plastic drinking straw with silver spray paint.  Then I tried to slice off identical widths, then I cut these in half.  I glued the half slices, the handles, to the front of the doors and drawers with super glue.

Glue your strainer/basket in.  I ordered a faucet from Hobby Builders, #938, I believe it's $6.99.

I hope I have the conversions right.  I know we want to try to stay to 1 inch scale as much as possible, but sometimes we just have to go by "eye" and that's just fine, too.

Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!!!!  Oh, and send pictures, too!

Talk to you all later, I have a special order to draft . . . . . . . Kris

THANK YOU, KAY!

O.K., I know that was yelling, I learned that a long time ago, but I mean it, Kay.  I did what you told me to do in the places I think you told me to, that sounds kind of cryptic doesn't?  I keep telling you I don't know anything about this computer, enough to get me into trouble, mostly.  I might know how to turn card stock into a watering can, but I know nothing about computers.  This is what you do for hobby money, and I suspect you know much more, sooo cool, and great that your share.  Miniaturists are the nicest people, thank you so much.  I looked for a class for old people at my local junior college on blogging, they don't have one, I think I should suggest one.  I hope you have fun on my blog!  Kris, (Kay, I tried to use your e-mail address and I couldn't get it to work, mine is camceiling@frontiernet.net)

Vintage sink, Kitchen Room Box

This is how I made the kitchen sink for the kitchen room box. I made the sink from wood, gesso and a jelly container, the small single serve kind from restaurants. If that's not available I've used any "bubble" packaging that is the size of the sink I want, this one being 1 1/2" x 1 3/4".

Start out with a piece of 1/16" thick stock, 1 7/8" x 4 1/2". Cut a hole in the center for your sink. I am now going to refer to this piece as the sink top. The plastic bubble should have a flange that you can use to glue the "sink" onto the wood. I glue the "sink" under the top. Don't glue now, just don't trim this flange off. Measure the sink and cut the opening, 3/8" from the back and 1/8" from the front. You can use an exacto knife, cutting a little bit at a time. Sand smooth.

We are going to add onto the 1/16" x 4 1/2" x 1 7/8"piece, the sink top, by gluing more wood to the top of it to make it thicker for the edge, back of top and drain board ridges.

From 3/32" stock cut a strip 3/8 wide and 4 1/2" long. Soften one edge of this piece, it should not be square, diagram A. This piece is glued toward the back on the of the sink top. This is where the faucet will be glued on. Glue the strip on using wood glue and clamp.

From 3/32" stock cut a strip 1/8" wide and 4 1/2" long, also cut 2 strips 1/8" wide and 1 3/4" long. Soften the top 2 edges of these 3 pieces, diagram B. Glue these pieces onto the sink top according to diagram C. Clamp and let dry. When dry slightly round off the front 2 corners of the sink top.

When everything is dry I sanded a slight slope to the drain boards going toward the sink.

Cut from 3/32" stock 1/16" wide strips. ( If you have access to 1/16" half round use that.) Round off the top 2 edges of the 3/32" x 1/16" strips according to diagram B. These are the drain board ridges. I glued 6 of these onto each side of sink. You'll need to clamp these down if you sanded the slope in.

Before you glue the sink to the underneath side of the sink top, cut a hole in the center for your drain. I found a plastic cap about 1/4" in diameter. I cut it off at about a 1/4" and stuck a straight pin in the center, painted it silver and dotted it with black on the inside of the cap to simulate the drain holes. This became my sink strainer/basket.
Another option is to use a gripper snap for the rim and leave out the strainer/basket. Gripper snaps are found in the notions department of a fabric store.

When you are satisfied with all of your sanding, glue the sink to the underneath side of the sink top, and set this assembly aside.

Cabinet. Follow the sizes in the diagram for cutting out the sink sides, back and front. Round off the top 2 corners of the back. Glue the sides onto the back, bottoms even, the back will be 3/8" taller, that's the back splash.
Glue the front onto the sides, keep the tops even. Follow the drawing at the top of page.

Cut from 1/16" stock a strip 3/8" x 4 3/8", this is to be painted black and will be glued onto the bottom front of the cabinet, it's the back of the toe kick.

The doors are made from 1/16" stock, cut 1" x 1 3/4", cut 4.

The drawers are 1/16" x 1" x 1/2", cut 2

The center vent is 1/16" x 1 1/16" x 1/2", cut 1.

With sand paper soften all four edges of the doors, drawers and vent.

I cut vent slots with an exacto knife. I've also seen a shape cut out and filled with decorative screen, maybe paper with tiny holes punched into it, or cross stitcher's perforated paper.

Glue sink top onto cabinet. The sink top will be longer and wider than the cabinet by just a bit, center the cabinet under the sink top from side to side and it should have extra in the front.

I use gesso to smooth everything in, all the seams need to be filled. I paint the whole sink top and let dry. The gesso will sink into the seams, so you will have to paint the gesso on a few times. After you've got everything filled you can sand it all smooth. Remember you want this sink to look like a piece of cast iron with the smooth finish of porcelain.

When that's done paint the sink top and cabinet. Paint the doors separately. I used Rustoleum white, it's an oil base enamel, gives a good appliance finish. Paint and sand between coats with fine sandpaper, I will use up to 400 grit to get a good smooth finish. When you are satisfied with the surface, do not sand the last coat of paint. Glue on the doors and toe kick. Go to the Kitchen Room Box Stove for a little more explanation of the painting.

I don't make my kitchen cabinets or appliances open. I am not going to open them and I don't leave them hanging open. They aren't hanging open in my full size kitchen. I think leaving them open in a miniature scene emphasizes that it is a miniature. I'm going for as much realism as I can achieve.

For the handles I painted a plastic drinking straw silver, then I tried to slice off identical widths, then I cut these in half. I glued the handles on with super glue, be careful.

Glue your strainer/basket in. I ordered a faucet from Hobby Builders, #938, $6.99.

If you have any questions about this please e-mail me and I will be glad to help you.

Miscellaneous Items in Kitchen Room Box

Just going to talk about a few items in the kitchen.

The round "tins" on the bottom shelf and canister set on the counter. These were made from card stock.
I use a wood dowel for the forms, choose the diameter you want for the size of "tin" you want. I find 3/4" dowels make a nice size tin. They come in all sizes, you choose the size of dowel you need.

Take a length of sewing thread, grey if you have it, and run it through your fingers full of silver paint. Get the thread covered, hang the thread to dry. Do enough to go around the tin twice. I do this the night before to be sure that the thread is dry.

The tin I'm copying is 2 1/2" tall. I'm going to cut a strip of card stock 7/32" wide and 2 5/8" long. Wrap it around the dowel, overlap the ends and glue with Elmer's white glue. Be careful not to glue it to the dowel. Let dry. When dry, sand the seam a bit to soften the joint.

Do you want to have a tin that opens? You can fill with cookies, candies or like mine, a button box. For the lid I like a pattern. There are lots of Dover Books that have copyright free designs and patterns. There are catalogs full of pictures that can be used. You can make your own on the computer. Or you can paint the lid. Small print calico is a good source, you can copy it on to card stock.

Cut a strip of card stock or your patterned paper that's been glued (with glue stick) onto card stock, 1/16" wide and 2 5/8" long. Wrap this narrow piece around the already glued strip that is still on the dowel. Carefully glue the lid strip to itself. Don't let glue go onto the bottom strip or you won't be able to open your tin. Let dry, testing occasionally to see that it is not glued to the bottom strip.

Push the lid strip slightly off the dowel, not all the way. Leave the bottom strip where it is. Cut a circle, a little larger in diameter than the dowel, from your patterned paper/card stock. Apply Elmer's white glue to the edge of the lid strip and set the circle (top) onto the glued edge. Let dry. When dry, carefully trim around, cutting close to the edge. I use curved scissors for this.

Take the completed lid off the dowel. Cut another piece of card stock a little larger than the diameter of the dowel. Push the the bottom strip slightly off the dowel, not all the way. Apply Elmer's to the edge and set the bottom circle onto the bottom strip. Let dry. When dry carefully trim off the extra card stock.

You can paint the bottom tin, I use Delta's PermEnamel, to coordinate with your patterned top. Let dry.

To make the rolled edges apply tacky glue in a very narrow line along the bottom edge of tin and apply the thread along this glue line. Let dry. Do the same thing with the bottom edge of the lid.

The canister set is made the same way using graduated sized of dowels.

To make the floor I first made a pattern and then cut a floor from poster board. I found something I liked from a "Better Homes and Gardens" 1940's magazine. I painted the whole surface dark blue, I used a little roller I found at Home Depot. You can use a foam brush, too. This time I used Delta's Ceramcoat. I let this dry. I marked off the border, it's about 5/8" and left an 1/8" space and masked another line about 1/8" wide. I used painter's blue tape. Then I sponged, I'm a great sponger, that's my answer to everything, "Sponge it". I used 2 shades a little lighter that the orignal blue plus white. Let this dry. Then according to the picture from the magazine I painted a little blue square, a yellow circle and 2 red lines. It's not much, but it gave the kitchen a 1940's feel. Take the blue tape off. I finished the floor with Delta's PermEnamel Clear Gloss Glaze.

I made the clock radio from polymer clay. The metal ring around the dial is a rim from a "Gripper" snap from the notions department in a sewing store. I use these for sink drain rims, too. The dial is a barometer face from a clock catalog.

The cabinets do not open. They are all boxes with doors glued on the faces. They are made from basswoood. The handles are drinking straws I painted silver. I snipped off small rings, trying to keep them all the same width, then I cut the rings in half, there's your handle. I glue them on with super glue. I painted the counter tops dark red. The old counter tops were covered with linoleum, some didn't have back splashes. I finished them with Delta's PermEnamel Clear Gloss Glaze. The edge of the counter tops is made from silver foil from a stained glass store or supplier. It's narrow, just the right size for the counter top, you can fold it over the top and bottom. This comes on a roll and is sticky. It looks just like the aluminum edge that used to make the front of our shirts black!

Going to make the sink top next.