How to Make a Dollhouse Miniature "Marble" Topped Wine Rack from Card Stock, Part 3

If you haven't got your 4 legs done, yet, you can go on to the marbling.

Everybody has a favorite way to marble and if you do, please use what you are comfortable with.  
This is yet another way to marble.

After you've got a good coat of white on the top you will use a charcoal pencil, extra soft, to make your lines.  I found a way to make the best random lines by accident.  I wanted to sharpen the charcoal pencil and draw nice sharp lines.  The charcoal kept breaking in the sharpener.  The pencil tip would have a broken tip, it had a nice sharp edge all around the broken tip.  Instead of drawing, pulling the pencil, I would roll the edge in a random pattern.  This gave me a thick and thin line with little variations in direction that I couldn't get by drawing that perfect line.  This worked out for me, try it out.  Don't forget to draw lines over the edges of the top.

 This is my top after I have my lines on, each time I do make the lines the top turns out differently.

I don't get too worried about the lines anymore, we just want to suggest marble.

This next thing we do is smudge the lines with your fingers, leave about 20% of the lines un-smudged.

Mix the Magnolia White with Americana's Glazing Medium, 50/50.

Use a small sponge to dip into the paint, blot off on  newspaper first; next blot over the lines you made on your top.

You are sinking the lines into the marble.  Don't cover up your lines,  just blot here and there.  

Let this dry.

To finish the top I apply a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Satin Glaze.  I let this dry and lightly sand it with 320 grit sand paper.  I apply a final coat of the satin glaze. 

When this coat is dry I buffed the top with a piece of crumpled brown paper bag.

Have you got 4 legs, yet? 

                                      

 Let's start gluing the legs on.  The legs are glued onto the underside of the apron, diagonally to the corners.

Apply glue to the apron and slide the flat top part of the leg to the corner.  Stop just before the curve of the leg touches the apron edge.  The back of the foot should be touching the corner of the wine bin.

Turn the table over and make sure the leg is in the center of the corner of the apron.

Glue the back of the foot to the corner of the wine bin.

Glue the rest of the legs on the same way.

Attach a sticky toothpick to the apron and go outside and spray your wine rack.

Center and glue your "marble" top on.  It's a good idea to clamp it on to keep everything flat.  Always use card stock between the clamps and your work to prevent marks.

These are my 2 tops, one has more lines it, they all come out different.

 

This is a picture of the finished table.  Fill the racks with wine bottles and place a display of fruit and cheese on top and I think we have a winner. 

 

 

 Have  fun, expand on it, make it better and just keep making minis.

Talk you all later, Kris                                                

So you like the watering can . . . . .

Hello to you all.  

I am glad you liked the watering can tutorial.  Have any of you made one yet?  I hope so.

I have so many ideas pinned to my cabinets that I want to make and put up on the blog.  I'll get to them.  Right now I am making up a pattern for a sofa for a special order.  I have 2 chairs to make for the same client.  I love making new patterns.  

I've been shopping for fabric and have decided to stay with the good old stand by of 100 percent cotton.  It's easy to find, easy to work with and relatively inexpensive.  I want to keep my furniture at a reasonable price.  Sometimes the more expensive fabric will cause more problems than it's worth.  When I began playing with miniatures I saw such beautiful and unique furniture, I wanted that furniture.  I saw the price of that furniture and knew it was never to be mine.  I don't judge the price charged, I respect the work that goes into each beautiful piece.  I kept making furniture until I thought I had learned how,  (with each new commission I find out that I haven't learned everything).  I started making and selling my furniture on CDHM.org. because I wanted others to have unique furniture in their dollhouses or room boxes for a reasonable price.  I don't want you to look into your friend's dollhouse and see your sofa and chair.  I want you to have your own sofa and chair made to coordinate with the decor you chose, not the decor that's available in the catalog.  So I guess it will be a compromise, stay with the cotton, might not be showy but it always works.
Going to go to bed now, Goodnight to all,  Kris

Watering Can Tutorial Part 4

Part 4






Cut the little extra off or just cut the circle open and overlap the extra.
Continue to glue the top onto the top of the body.












Get the piece of double layer of card stock that you set aside earlier.


Cut a strip 3/32" (2mm) wide.

Using Tacky or Elmer's glue a length of button/carpet thread down the center. Set aside, this is the handle.







Use Tacky or Elmer's to glue button/carpet thread around the bottom seam. Glue the thread around the body on the lines.


















Finally glue the thread around the top seam.













With a sharp blade in your craft knife cut a small horizontal slot in the body at the bottom "X" wide enough for the handle to go through. Wiggle the blade a little to open the slot a bit.

Cut the length of the handle to 2 1/8" (54mm).








Bend 1/4" (7mm) at the one end of the handle.

Bend 1/8" (3mm) at the other end of the handle.













When you bent the 1/8" end of the handle the card stock probably came apart. We are going to take advantage of this. Cut off the bottom layer of the card stock to the 1/8" crease. If this doesn't come apart you can sand this portion thinner.











Run the handle through your fingers to help make the curve.

Apply glue into the bottom slot and insert the bottom of the handle in, just into the body of the watering can.














Apply glue to the center front at the top seam and bend the handle over and glue the tip to the top seam.












Cut a single layer of card stock the same width as the handle, 1/2" (14mm) long. Apply glue to the top "X" on center back seam, above the thread. Glue one end of the 1/2" long piece to the body. Gently bend the piece and glue the other end to the handle.








Glue the bottom of the spout to the line on the center front of the watering can. Let dry.















When the spout is dry, really dry, trim the thread and glue the ends of the thread to the body of the watering can.

End of Part 4.

I am painting my watering cans and when I am finished I will post the pictures.
I recommend using a thick paint for the first coat. I like using Delta's Perm Enamel, I use white. This covers all of the little bumps and covers the thread like I want it to, so it doesn't look like thread anymore. If you have the right colors of Perm Enamel use it for all of the painting. I don't, so I just use white for a primer. I will use acrylic craft paint to finish them. Then I will apply a coat of Perm Enamel Gloss Glaze for shine.

Watering Can Tutorial Part 3

Part 3


Punch a 1/4" hole into the corner of your card stock.

















Use a circle template to draw a 7/16" circle around the hole you just punched. Offset the circle so that the hole is not in the center.















Now draw a 11/16" circle.

Or you can use the patterns on the diagram in the first part of the tutorial.











Cut the large circle out. If the watering can body is dry remove the clips.















Apply Elmer's to the bottom of the body and set it onto the circle. Let this dry. You may have to trim, but don't do that until the bottom is dry.












Cut out the circle with the offset hole in it.














Lay the circle onto the craft foam or something like it. Use a stylus to shape the large portion of the circle.
















Rub the stylus to create a rounded shape. Press hard, this is the top and we want it to have a rounded shape.
































The seam on the body is the "center back".

Glue the top onto the body by gluing the large rounded part first, opposite the center back. There will be a little extra to trim at the center back. I tried many sizes of circles, trying to avoid the trimming. I just couldn't get it done.

End of Part 3

Watering Can Tutorial Part 2

Part 2

Run the card stock over the table edge a couple of times to get a tight curve.
















Start wrapping the card stock around a toothpick, roll tightly.

Now, unroll a bit and apply glue to the card stock, roll up the card stock again. I wouldn't roll up more than twice around the toothpick. Be careful not to get any glue onto the toothpick. Trim the card stock close to the edge of the glue.







Give the whole thing a good roll back and forth on your table.















Slip off the tube of card stock. Cut a sharp angle on one end using your scissors. You can hold it up to the body of the watering can to get the angle you want.
Now, cut the top angle to the length you want your spout to be.

I am going to explain the next type of spout before I go on with the rest of the directions.










The next type of spout uses "Q"-Tips, these are "Q"-Tips.












Use your craft knife, scissors or wire cutters to cut one end off at a sharp angle. Again you can hold this up to the watering can body to judge this angle.













Measure 1 1/8" (28mm) from that cut and make a mark on the handle of the "Q"-Tip.
















Bend the handle a bit between your forefinger and thumb.



















Now cut at the mark you made.











Remember the little bit of button/carpet thread you stiffened with glue? We are going to use it now.

Fold the thread in half and cut at the halfway mark. Save one piece for later use.

Take the extra piece and fold it in half. Use Elmer's to glue the fold to the spout about 3/8" (9mm) from the bottom of the spout, somewhere in that area. Be sure to glue the thread on the side of the spout that will face the body.


End of Part 2

Watering Can Tutorial Part 1

Hello Miniaturists ! ! ! I hope everyone is having a good year so far.




On with the tutorial.

This month I have a watering can to make from card stock. The pattern is on the left. I have made a couple of squares for you to use when you download and copy the pattern. If your square measures to what is written in the square you are at the right size.
I am trying out a new thing this time, including centimeters, these are estimates as this project doesn't really need to be exact. I hope this helps out a bit.



I bought this watering can from Home Depot, it was marked down and I couldn't resist. I love the shape. I thought we could make this from card stock to get ready for the gardens and potting sheds that are being planned.











You will need some supplies for this project: card stock; button/carpet thread, this is thicker than regular sewing thread; a large ball stylus; 1/4" hole punch; a circle template, both optional; your craft knife; a toothpick; craft foam and "Q"-Tips, optional. We will use Elmer's white or yellow glue for most of the project. I will let you know when we need to change to Tacky.









Craft foam is found in the kid's craft area. I use it for shaping with the ball stylus. You can use a washcloth or layers of paper towel that have been put into a plastic bag. We need something cushy.














For starters cut about a 2" (5cm) length of the button/carpet thread. Apply a dab of Elmer's to your finger and run the thread through the glue. This will stiffen the thread. Set this aside for later.













Cut a piece of card stock about 1" x 3" (2.5cm x 7.5cm) and use Elmer's to glue this piece to another piece of card stock. Press well, smooth it out and set this aside for later, also. We need this double layer of card stock for the handle.






Print the pattern out on card stock. Cut the body out, when cutting, cut on the line, don't leave any line on the card stock pattern piece.











To help gluing this piece together we need to curve it first. Place the pattern piece on the edge of your table, cover the pattern with the palm of your hand and pull the pattern through. This will begin the curve.














Glue the body together, overlapping to the line. Use alligator clips to hold the body together if you have them.

Let this dry.

We have two options for the spout. One has a curve in it, that's the one we use the "Q"-Tips for. These things have a rolled paper handle with cotton at each end. I am sure they are universal, just not called "Q"-Tips.
The other spout is straight and we will roll card stock to make it. The choice is yours.








This is the straight card stock spout. Cut a strip of card stock about 1 1/8" (3cm) wide, we will trim to size later.









Run this strip over the edge of your table to get a tight curve started.




End of Part 1